Draft of Caesars Palace International cookbook, Hors d'oeuvres and appetizers: An Introduction

Hors d'oeuvres and appetizers page 1 HORS D'OEUVRES AND APPETIZERS: AN INTRODUCTION To the French, hors d'oeuvre means "outside the meal" or "apart from work," and is used in the singular form. In the United States we commonly, but improperly, use the plural. Serving a crock much work but preparing an elaborate hot hors d'oeuvre for sit-down service is time consuming. At Caesars Palace we enjoy serving foie gras, especially since Caesar extolled it as a food fit for the Gods. It is a wonderful opportunity to give your guests a perfect first course which requires no preparation ? except a well-filled purse. The mood of the dinner is set by the hors d'oeuvre in the same way that champagne sets one mood and beer another. And for true elegance, caviar is the queen of appetizers. In our gourmet Bacchanal Room we serve only the finest fresh caviar and more of it, probably, than any restaurant in Nevada. I am reminded of a phone call I received from one of our good customers, an eccentric Texas millionaire who owns a good part of the Strip in Las Vegas and talks somewhat like W. C. Fields. He wanted to know if we had Beluga caviar and how much was it. When I told him it was $9.50 an ounce, he said that was outrageous. I agreed. "I reckon I'll take a pound," he said. "Send it over." "Do you want it with chopoed white and yolk of egg, sour cream. of foie gras from Strasbourg or a bite-size canape does not entail "Begin at the beginning and go on till you e to the end; then stop." Alice in Wonderland Hors d'oeuvres and appetizers page 2 lemons, capers, chopped onions, chives and toast?" I asked. MNaw," he said, "jes* send along a spoon." Distinguished Russian guests feel much the same way, even b y - passing toast, but many of our caviar eaters want the works. As a prologue to a meal, each nation has its favoritesi the Russians (who, by the way, say they invented hors d'oeuvre) serve their delicacies lavishly as zakouski;Greeks call their appetizers Eaezethaklai Scandinavians dote on their wonderful smorrebrod; Spain has z entremes; Japan has ?ensai; and Italian antipasto is popular world-wide. Properly, appetizers should act as overtures to a meal, tickle the taste buds,and be a delight to the eye* not too rich and served in small portions. At Caesars Palace we like to do as the Romans do, but we would not consider serving the staggering array of tasty morsels Which the Romans ate in their qustus first course. It's not easy, if the hors d'oeuvres are irresistible, to limit oneself. Yet it is important not to defeat the real purpose of the meal ? the main course. We frequently serve small portions of luncheon and dinner specialties as appetizers. Cold salmon; a wedge of a hot open-faced cheese tarty an elegant crepe, stuffed with seafood or chicken; that delicacy from Province, ratatoullle. make tempting prologues to a meal. And marinated mushrooms, smoked salmon, chilled melon /or figs with paper-thin proscuitto loake de-lightful, light appetizers. Hors d'oeuvres and appetizers page 3 CLAM ZUPPA My wife, Sylvia, and I were once lunching at a charming little inn in Lisbon, Portugal where we ordered Clam Zuppa as a first course. Clams are more often mistreated than not in many restaurants and X was dubious. This Zuppa was so special in flavor that I was compelled to seek out the chef. Back in Las Vegas I refined the recipe somewhat, tried it out on the Bacchanal captains and chefs (serious tasters, all of them), and found that soon Clam Zuppa became one of our most popular dishes. People continually ask for the recipe. Its base is Eastern cherrystone clams, which we have flown in daily. HOW many clams? That depends on how you plan to serve it. For 1 a main course you might want hrh to 2 dozen per person? for an appet-izer, 6; as a fish course at dinner 6 to 12 clams. We prepare each order individually and serve it in a small mar- ? > . ' j mite pot with a cover. A cocotte or individual iron pot with cover will do nicely. Each guest ladles out broth and opened clams into his soup bowl. Or, you may prefer using a very large pot for 6 dozen clams, and 1 ( , f then transfer clams and broth to 6 individual soup bowls. -, Clam Zuppa is essentially a stove-to-table operation. You cannot prepare it too far in advance or reheat -it too much because the v t . - ?. ^ H J ^ " " shoe leather. For 1 serving ? 1 dozen cherrystone clams per person i Hors d'oeuvres and appetizers page 4 1/2 tablespoon? of sweet butter 1/4 teaspoon chopped garlic 1/2 teaspoon of shallots, chopped 1/2 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tomatoes, pulp only, no skin or seeds 3 ounces of sauterne wine Freshly grated black pepper; no salt, clams are naturally salty Lemon wedges 1. Scrub the clams, rinse in several waters and drain. Combine all ingredients (except lemon wedges) in a small pot with a well-fitting cover. 2/ Bring to a boil and cook for 4 minutes. The steam in the pan opens the shells. If shells have begun to open, boil for another 2 or 3 minutes until all are opened. Watch carefully; if cooked too long, the tender clams will tougly. Discard PRESENTATION: Serve immediately in the pot. Diner transfers broth , squeezing lemon on soup, and clams to soup bowl/ Good crusty souj^tf dough bread and fresh sweet butter are perfect with clams^which need so little to enhance their delicate flavor. VARIATION: Linguine or fettucine with white clam sauce, a Bait tomato. simple but glorious dish, can be made with Clam Zuppa./Boil pasta r?c'.p?) p?c\<Z- - ??* according ^package directions (one pound serves 4 to 6.) For 6 v persons use 6 dozen clams. Remoe from shells and keep clams warn. Reduce the clam broth by half and add 1/2 cup of heavy cream. Simmer 3 minutes. Return clams to broth. Blend 2 egg yolks with 1/2 cup of cream and add a little of the hot broth. Blend well and return to broth. Heat; be careful not to boil and serve with linguine or fettucine. Hors d'oeuvres and appetizers Page Substitute this for Page 4 of Hors* d'oeuvres Variation Linguine or fettucine noodles with white clam sauce LINGUINE WITH WHITE CLAM SAUCE This is a simple but glorious dish which can be made with Clam Zuppa (see recipe, page ? ) and a few additions. Fettucine noodles or spag-hetti may be used but linguine seems to taste better. Use 6 dozen fresh clams for 6 servings of the Clam Zuppa for the white clam sauce. Omit tomato and lemon wedges from Clam Zuppa recipe. For 4 to 6 servings 6 servings of Clam Zuppa 2 egg yolks f 1 pound linguine Grated Oarmesan cheese 1 cup whipping cream ?> 1. Boil linguine according to our recipe, page ? , or use pac/kage directions. Taste a strand befoce removing from the fire to see if it is done to your liking. Drain linguine well and place in covered warm bowl. 2. Remove the clams from shells after making up the Clam Zuppa and keep clams warm in covered dish. Reduce the clam broth by half and add 1/2 cup whipping cream. Simmer for 3 minutes. Return clams to broth. 3. Blend 2 egg yolks with the remaining 1/2 cup of whipping cream and add a little of the hot broth. Blend well and return to broth. Heat; be careful not to boil. Spoon sauce over linguine and sprinkle gen-eriously with grated Parmesan cheese.