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\ I this week IN NEW YORK One of the most exciting things to see in New York is the waterfront?╟÷ and few people visit it, unless they happen to be leaving on an ocean voyage. This week, to make a trip to the pier especially interesting, the French Line is offering the opportunity of walking up the gangplank and boarding the SS France, between the hours of 3 and 5 p.m. on Wednesday, August 28. There is only one requirement: a free pass which may be obtained at the French Line sales office at 555 Fifth Avenue. After obtaining the pass, the visitor proceeds by cab or west-bound Forty- Ninth Street bus, to the pier to board the flagship of the French Line. There is no conducted tour, but visitors are free to roam the sixty- six-thousand-ton ship, the longest liner in the world. Nearby, incidentally, the Norwegian freighter, Concordia Star, is in the process of unloading the blocks of the Temple of Dendur from the United Arab Republic to the United States for reconstruction as an extension of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The temple, one of the buildings saved from flooding during the construction of the Aswan Dam, was built during the time of Augustus in 1 B.C. Some of the blocks may possibly be on display at the Museum this week. The sparkle of silver skates and the smooth, soaring motion that is achieved only on ice come to the new Madison Square Garden this week with the world premiere of the Holiday on Ice of 1969, beginning Wednesday, August 28. Created and staged by Donn Arden, this is the first ice show to appear in the new Garden. Ronnie Robertson, member of the Garden's soon-to-open Hall of Fame, and Anna Galmarini of Italy, former winner of the World's Professional Skating championship, are the star performers. They are supported by Alice Quessy, comedian Paul Andre and Norwegian champion Grete Borgen, in addition to many others, in- WHERE MAGAZINE eluding Helga and Jorge Valle. The two youngest professional skaters in the world, six-year-old. twins Kris and Kelly Cook, are part of a family act that includes their eight-year-old sister, Kim, and their parents. The five companies in the Holiday on Ice show will tour two hundred eighty-one cities in sixty-nine countries before the year is over. Morris Chalfen is the executive producer. Performances are scheduled for 7:30 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, at 8:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, with Saturday and Sunday matinees at 2 p.m. There are no performances on Sunday, Monday or Tuesday evenings. This is the final week for "Romeo and Juliet" at the New York Shakespeare Festival. Martin Sheen and Susan McArthur star in the outdoor production, under the direction of Joseph Papp. Performances are nightly, except Monday, at 8 p.m., through August 30, in the Delacorte Theatre in Central Park. Meanwhile, the four-playlet comedy by Robert Anderson, "You Know I Can't Hear You When the Water's Running," recently reached its six-hundredth performance at the Broadhurst Theatre. A burlesque of Hollywood?╟÷the young girl following in the footsteps of a vanished star, the terribly serious geniuses of the medium, the powerful gossip columnist?╟÷this is "The Legend of Lylah Clare," now playing at Loew's State and Or- pheum. Kim Novak takes the parts of both the new young star and the movie queen of the thirties, shown in flashbacks and in movies-within-the- movie. Peter Finch is the great director who molds both of them. There is Ernest Borgnine as a busy producer, Michael Murphy as his ambitious son, Rossella Falk as a voice coach with an attachment for Lylah Clare and her young double, and Coral Browne as the bitter gossip columnist. All in all, a good, spoofy bit of fun with some bite, produced and directed by Robert Aldrich. t\ Totie Fields brings her own good humored fun to the Royal Box of the Americana. Mel Carter is the singer on the program. The Carson McCullers novel, "The Heart Is a Lonely Hunter," has been made into a poignant film starring Alan Arkin as the deaf mute and Sondra Locke as the young girl who befriends him. The motion picture, at the Penthouse and the Murray Hill Theatres, was filmed in Alabama, with James Wong Howe as director of cinematography. A look at supper club activity this week reveals the following happy news: Totie Fields (see story below), providing more than her weight in laughter at the Royal Box of the Americana; she shares some of the spotlight with singer Mel Carter. Freda Payne and Pat Rolle, two voices of the future, making their respective debuts at the Persian Room of the Plaza. The Temptations, who replace comic Pat Henry at Jules PodeH's Copacabana on Thursday, August 29; Helen O'Connell, keeping spirits high in the Rainbow Grill; the Spanish singing and dancing troupe, Los Trovadores, headlining the new French revue at the Latin Quarter, and flamenco dancer Miguel Sandoval, a former bullfighter, held over at the Chateau Madrid. LIFE WITH TOTIE Making her debut at the Royal Box of the Americana, comedienne Totie Fields is proving that whoever said "nobody loves a fat girl" is crazy. You'll love Miss Fields. Shell make you laugh. Her humor has bite, but no malice. And her self-disparaging remarks about her weight ("Let's