ent000894-022

?√ßTHE .NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION TOTRSDAY, DECEMBER, 3, 196^ Performers and Guests Sparkle at the Lido *Quelle Nuit?╟╓ Revue Shows Verve and Gaiety of Spirit By THOMAS QUINN CURTISS PARIS, Dee! 2 ?╟÷ ?√ßme Lido Did all of Paris to its sumptuous; subterranean Venetian banquet hajl in the Champs-Elysees last night to dine and inspect its latest revue, ?╟úQuelle Nuit!' | The women guests wei quested to come clad in silk panitalons. And tl>e room, illu- minated by the presence of Eli- zabeth TuSflo?,' Maria .Callus, Rorny Schneider, Catherine De- neuve, the Duchess of Bedford, the Vlcomtesse de Ribes, Melina Mercouri,''Juliette Greco, Lud- milla Tcherina and Bettina, provided-?╟÷as It took on the aii of a chip pyjama,p?║rty--a spec- tacle of angular glitter before the curtain went up.?╟? g Curtain time came just after midnight, With top-hatted cho- rus men in evening clothes ex- claiming their delight in Paris- ian nights as they roused '-the chorus girls from a huge white fur bqd to acdompany Them, in a ifodriing parade across the stage and down on to the flooy that rose amid the dinner tables. A blonde beauty from the Ar- gentine, Nelida, announced the program credits as she whs toss- ed, beplumed and bejeweled, from ehorusman to ?√ßchorusman- The opening, stunningly cos- turned and snmulatingly paced, ik traditional, but in the^ show that follows a ?╟únew loot??* has been bestowed on the forinuia that elsewhere is.'psu&lly' rou- tin!.?╟╓, -'71 The' latest Lido extravaganza has in all its attempts a light- ness and esprit, a polish and an elegahck that flatter its au* dience?╟╓s sense of sophistication. Telling Touches The telling touch of its creat- ors, Pierfe-Louis Guerin, Rene Fraday and theft- estimable American choreographer, Don Arden, is that of an artist. Tak- ing, the ingredients of the musi- cal revue~cOstumes, scenery, ?╟úturns,?╟Ñ tableaux, Bluebell Girls, models, roaitnequiris add popular melodies-?╟÷they convert, with an unerring .instinct fpr form;;?╟╓the' finished whole into something of fluid light, fluid colorr.aiid .fluid' beauty/ . They adhere to, the Ziegfeld principle of quick change. Noth- ing is left ?╟úoh?╟Ñ- jj quite long enough, but everything leaves its impression. The electee tempo is a direc- torial signature, as taste, grace, humor, freshness and presentation of the indivi- dual sequences: Frederick and Gina gliding dreamily across the ice stage; Rico, the suave magi- cian of a thousand candies; the green-plush interior of the Orange Blossom Pullman sleep- er with the girls in,their night- leaf -bound tor -Florida;-. Others Delights There is Chuck Dodd?╟╓s Rod* (gers-Hart medley; a gypsy, en- campment in the shadow of Grenda?╟╓s walls, followed sight of a bandit chief off intqMhh night with a bride in his ^arms; the dance,-^brilliantly executed by Nelida rAhd Eber^Lobato, in a jungle clearing before a thun- dering Waterfall; the hilarious, amazing ventriloquism of Fred , RdlSy; the eomie,b?·>peles s en- 1 deavork' of the forlorn. Houdini disciple; Madjtanqyi: to make magtq;*-'a- BeliC-TJpoque supper Elizabeth Taylor, escorted by Richard Burton, arrives at the opening of the/new Lido revtte last night wearing a golden sari by Balenciaga. She was accompanied by her hairdresser, Alexandre of Paris, who gave her a high coiffure with/a gold silh ribbon braided through It. restaurant dawning in. its glided grandeur ?√ß out of the darkness to the nostalgic strains o?·./?╟ The Merry Widow.?╟Ñ , ?╟? - A happy example of .the. Gpe- rin-Fr&day-Arden tieaiment la Sound in the amusing spoofing of the sorb Of thing the mn\ ias and the operetta stage still per- form ?╟ústraight?╟Ñ and," when bur- ?√ßiesqued by other hahds, be- comes, grotesque- and unplea- santly crude and obviohs. . ' ?╟úQuelle Nuit[?╟ú>is perhaps the best of t|ie Lido revues, a. show of ?╟≤ enormoks* 1 - verve and dazzle, of champagne sparkle and Paris- ian obsnwpOlltahiSrri. Women?╟╓s Trousers Set Fashion Pace on a Gala Night By GLORIA EMERSON Special to The New TSpk Doles. PARIS, Deq, 2 ?╟÷ If is n . mally the last .place, in the world where people go tp see how women drees,. The Lido?╟÷-the world?╟╓s larges rant?╟÷has b< tourists tor 36 young women little. - 1 But one night a year it is .the way the customers clothe themselves, that makes news, Last night was the premiere of the new Lido, show?╟÷?╟úQuelle Nult!?╟Ñ?╟÷ahd more than 500 .celebrities, ranging from .dtpjb- mats to ballet dancers, were invited. Women wjsjn requested to wear .'^anteJonk -de soir,?╟Ñ which, however ?╟≤,. translated, meant trousers, culottes or breeches in dressy materials. It Was impossible to take an accurate count of Who wore trousers and who didn?╟╓t. Many of the publicized women, includ- ing the Duchess of Bedford. VP cbmtes.se : Jacqueline de Ribes, Romy-Schneider, Franeoise Sac gan, Juliette 'Greco, the pop singer Francois* Hardy, actresf Catherine Deneuve and Mrs Helene Rochas, did. Dissenters They distracted other people from frying much'attention to the dissenters. Among those mt m| not appreciate the skirted green dress, and Marla Call as, who was striking in a floor-length black crepe and a strand of pearls. The Duchess Of edford ad- mitted cheerfully that her blaSi trouser suit cost only about $65- She bought it in a shop on Baker Street in London and giggled when people commented ?╟úNot mfifeh point in spending H great deal of money,?╟Ñ she said. ?╟úAfter all. one doesn?╟╓t dress this grotesquely very often.?╟Ñ The Duke of Bedford did not have any violent opi-' nions on the trousers-versus- skirts controversy, but he said that he didn?╟╓t like sitting at the ?╟úconcierge?╟╓s odmer?╟Ñ cf the No. 1 table because waiters, photographers and press agents kept stabbing him in the back as they pushed up and down .the'aisles*;-, yj There were three designers whose name waved like ban- kers; Chanel,- Guy Laroche and Jacques Heim. Although Coco Chanel ?╟≤- said last summer that her plants were to be worn orily at home, she might haw relent- ed upon, seeing how well her clients looked in them, especial- ly Juliette Greco in white-on- gold lame pants worn with a scarlet blouse- ' Quy Laroche won glory be- eftpse Mrs.. .Helens- Rochas,{ his striking black paillette,suit cut; as severely as a dinner jack- et, made many other women look like - cream puffs. Jacque- line de Ribes, another client, also boosted his stock.. Jacques Heim?╟╓s tunic dress with breeepea pe'Sking out below the hem was seen in several variations. Ten women at the Lido had'bought such a dress, and more than a dozen had call- ed up this couture house to borrow one tor the evening. The excitement over who wore a skirt and who did nor evaporated when Elizabeth Tay. Pants of many styles-were In evidence/;1 such as these worn: by the author, Frangoise Sagan,; in; the foreground, and the actress, Juliette Greco, Miss Sagan's grousers* were of black velvet. Mias Greco?╟╓s trousers by Chanel were white on ,gold lame,,with,a blouse of red fialle. Thei Singer Frangoise Hardy in Chanel trousers of white lam6. Long coat was made of pale blonde mousselute. lor/ her husband, Riehard.Bpr-l ton,' and her hairdresser, Alex- andre ofL RariS, made a late, en- trance. MisS Taylor wore a golden Balenciaga sari (as did' Anna- bel Buffet, wifr of thq,p??Shter), Whagh.'hdd a skirt, . f ,?╟≤?╟≤?╟≤?╟≤, S| Hfer presence caused jyaitebs I guests to clap loudly as mb-Ved in,-Ja* Jj???½sreign manner '*6! her plttc#at?╟  a ?╟≤igtole between Boron Guy de Roths- child .and Aristotle, Onassis. ras reported in the -French press that Mr.' Burton refused to let his wrte wear pants. . -One of the striking women Was a fashion editor cf, El-le magazine, Peggyr whose trousers were so wide th-at> she had to do a high kick to prove la. -black Jaeques Heim trousers with Sequfnmed top ?√ßMost of thfe women $n trousers ore .high -heels,tgaird os didn?╟╓t pay much atteritw<nv.4P the predicted wx&e of, curly'Beads. There wrf?╜?½either > n r high hairdosrwuffiaflitpj or, qs personified?╟╓by Firansoise Hardy, very long ham as .straight as